Camellia Lashes vs. Traditional Volume Fans: Which Should You Use for Your Clients?
As a lash artist, you've likely faced that moment when a client sits in your chair and you're not sure whether to reach for volume lash fans or try the Camellia lashes technique. Volume fans give you that full, dramatic effect that photographs beautifully, while Camellia lashes create a softer, more believable texture that works for everyday wear. These two eyelash extension types serve completely different purposes, and picking the wrong one can leave your client disappointed. The good news is that once you know the basics of each lash extension technique, the choice becomes much clearer.
What Are Volume Lash Fans?
Volume lash fans are created by taking multiple synthetic lashes (usually 2-8 individual lashes) and fanning them out before applying them to a single natural lash. The lashes are arranged in a symmetrical fan shape, creating density and fullness across the entire lash line.
0.05 Premium Mega Volume Eyelash Extensions
CURL: C
LENGTH: MIXED 8-15MM
This technique applies fans in uniform rows, creating a smooth, even appearance that covers gaps in natural lashes. The method works well for clients with sparse natural lashes or those wanting maximum impact. Most lash artists complete a full volume set in 2-3 hours, depending on desired density.
What Are Camellia Lashes?
Camellia lashes involve applying extensions in varying lengths and directions to mimic natural lash growth patterns. Instead of creating perfect fans, lash artists strategically place extensions at different angles and heights for intentional irregularity.
This technique creates a softer, more organic appearance that looks like naturally full lashes rather than obviously applied extensions. Application requires fewer extensions per natural lash compared to volume fans, often making it slightly faster. The result is an effortlessly textured look that appears believable in natural lighting, perfect for clients wanting subtle enhancement.
Thickness: 0.07
Curl: LJ
Length: Mixed 8-15mm
Key Differences: Volume Fans vs Camellia Lashes
Volume lash fans work better than Camellia lashes when you need to create serious drama or fill in sparse natural lashes. On the flip side, Camellia lashes beat volume fans hands down for that "I woke up like this" natural look. Really, it comes down to what your client's going for - volume fans give you more bang for your buck in terms of lasting power, but Camellia lashes win when it comes to looking like real eyelash extensions that nobody can tell are fake.
| Factor | Volume Lash Fans | Camellia Lashes |
| Application Method | Multiple lashes fanned symmetrically, applied as uniform units | Individual lashes placed at varying angles and directions |
| Final Appearance | Dense, dramatic, uniform lash line | Textured, natural, wispy finish |
| Volume Level | High volume and fullness | Moderate volume with natural texture |
| Application Time | 2-3 hours for full set | 1.5-2.5 hours for full set |
| Skill Level Required | Moderate (consistent fan creation) | Advanced (artistic placement and eye for natural patterns) |
| Best for Client Type | Sparse natural lashes, glamorous looks | Fine natural lashes, everyday wear |
| Longevity | 3-4 weeks with proper care | 2-3 weeks with proper care |
| Maintenance | Regular fills every 2-3 weeks | Regular fills every 2 weeks |
| Cost Range | $150-$300 for full set | $120-$250 for full set |
| Photography | Excellent for photos and special events | Better for natural, everyday photos |
| Learning Curve | Easier to master consistent technique | Requires more artistic skill and practice |
Volume lash fans are better than Camellia lashes for creating dramatic impact and covering sparse natural lashes, while Camellia lashes outperform volume fans in achieving natural-looking texture and subtle enhancement. Volume fans provide superior longevity and easier maintenance, whereas Camellia lashes excel in creating believable, everyday lash looks that photograph well in natural lighting.
When to Use Volume Fans: Best Client Types and Looks
Volume lash fans are your go-to choice when clients want maximum impact and aren't afraid to make a statement with their lashes. This technique works best for specific situations where bold, full lashes are exactly what's needed.
- Clients wanting dramatic, glamorous lashes - Perfect for those who love the full, Instagram-ready look and want their lashes to be the main feature of their makeup
- Special events and occasions - Weddings, parties, photoshoots, and red carpet events where extra drama and impact are essential for looking stunning in photos
- Those with sparse natural lashes - Ideal for clients with gaps in their lash line or very few natural lashes, as volume fans create density where there isn't much to work with
- Bold, uniform lash line preferences - Great for clients who prefer a consistent, even look across their entire lash line rather than natural variation
- Clients with hooded or deep-set eyes - Volume fans help open up the eyes and create more definition for eye shapes that need extra lift and presence
- Those comfortable with higher maintenance - Perfect for clients who don't mind more frequent touch-ups and are committed to proper aftercare routines
When to Use Camellia Lashes: Perfect Situations and Client Needs
Camellia lashes work best when your client wants enhancement that looks effortless and believable. This technique shines in situations where natural beauty is the goal.
- Natural, everyday lash looks - Ideal for clients who want to wake up looking put-together without the obvious "I'm wearing extensions" appearance
- Clients with fine or delicate natural lashes - Perfect for those whose natural lashes can't handle the weight of heavy volume fans without damage or discomfort
- Textured, feathery finish preferences - Great for clients who love that soft, wispy look that mimics how naturally full lashes would actually grow
- First-time lash extension clients - Excellent starting point for newcomers who want to try extensions without committing to a dramatic change right away
- Professional or conservative work environments - Ideal for clients in careers where subtle enhancement is preferred over bold, obvious lash extensions
- Active lifestyles and low-maintenance preferences - Perfect for clients who exercise regularly, swim frequently, or simply don't want to worry about their lashes throughout the day
How to Apply Volume Fans and Camellia Lashes: Step-by-Step Techniques
Both volume fans and Camellia lashes require different approaches and skills. Here's how to create each style step by step, so you can master both techniques and offer more options to your clients.
Creating Volume Lash Fans
Volume fans follow a systematic approach that focuses on consistency and uniformity across the entire lash line.
Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace Set up your lash strips on a jade stone or glass surface. Use 0.03-0.07mm diameter lashes in lengths ranging from 8-15mm depending on your client's natural lashes.
Step 2: Create the Fan Pick up 2-5 lashes with your tweezers, depending on the volume you want. Gently wiggle the tweezers to separate the lashes at the base, creating a fan shape. The lashes should spread evenly from a single point.
Step 3: Apply Adhesive Dip the base of the fan into a small amount of lash adhesive. Use just enough to coat the base without creating excess glue that could stick lashes together.
Step 4: Isolate and Attach Use your isolation tweezers to separate one natural lash. Place the fan on top of the natural lash, about 1-2mm from the eyelid. Hold for 2-3 seconds to ensure proper bonding.
Step 5: Repeat the Process Work across the lash line systematically, creating fans of similar size and placing them at consistent intervals. This creates the uniform, dense appearance that volume fans are known for.
Creating Camellia Lashes
Camellia lashes require a more artistic approach, focusing on varying placement and natural irregularity.
Step 1: Map the Natural Growth Pattern Study your client's natural lashes closely. Notice how they grow in different directions, the varying lengths, and any natural cowlicks or growth patterns.
Step 2: Select Varied Lengths Choose lashes in 3-4 different lengths for each eye. Typically use 8-14mm lengths, but vary them more than you would with volume fans.
Step 3: Create Irregular Placement Instead of uniform fans, create smaller clusters of 1-3 lashes. Some should point slightly upward, others more straight out, and some can angle slightly downward to mimic natural growth.
Step 4: Vary the Angles Apply lashes at different angles across the lash line. Don't aim for perfect symmetry - natural lashes don't grow in perfect rows, so your extensions shouldn't either.
Step 5: Build Texture Gradually Work in small sections, stepping back frequently to assess the overall texture. Add lashes where the natural pattern would create fullness, and leave some areas slightly less dense for a realistic look.
Step 6: Final Adjustments Once complete, use a clean spoolie to gently brush through the lashes, encouraging them to settle into natural-looking positions.
How to Mix Volume Fans and Camellia Lashes for Custom Results
Combining volume fans with Camellia lashes gives you the best of both worlds - you can create dramatic impact where needed while maintaining natural texture throughout.
Start with Volume Fans in Sparse Areas
Begin by identifying areas where your client's natural lashes are thin or have gaps. Apply volume fans in these sections first to create a solid foundation of density. Focus particularly on the outer corners and any obvious bare spots along the lash line. This gives you the coverage you need while setting up the framework for the more textured areas.
Use Camellia Technique for Natural Sections
In areas where your client has decent natural lash density, switch to the Camellia technique. Apply individual lashes or small clusters at varying angles and lengths to enhance what's already there. This creates that natural, feathery texture while blending seamlessly with the volume fan sections.
Blend the Transition Areas Carefully
The key to a successful hybrid set is making sure you can't tell where one technique ends and the other begins. In the areas where volume fans meet Camellia placement, use slightly smaller fans (2-3 lashes instead of 4-5) and vary their angles slightly. This creates a smooth transition that looks intentional rather than patchy.
Adjust Length and Curl for Consistency
Length Mapping:
- Inner corner: 8-9mm
- Center sections: 10-12mm
- Outer corner: 11-13mm
Curl Guidelines:
- Use same curl type throughout entire set (C curl OR D curl).
- Don't mix different curl types.
- Keep all extensions within 1mm of planned length for each section.
Test the Overall Balance
Step back frequently during application to check that the hybrid set looks balanced. You want the volume fan areas to provide impact without overpowering the natural Camellia sections. If one technique starts to dominate too much, adjust by either toning down the volume fans or adding a bit more texture to the Camellia areas.
Quality Check Steps:
- Stop every 15-20 lashes to check work from arm's length.
- Take phone photo to see camera appearance.
- If volume areas look too heavy: remove 1 lash from each fan.
- If Camellia areas look sparse: add single lashes to fill gaps.
- Both techniques should look equally full when complete.
Communicate the Plan with Your Client
Before starting a hybrid set, explain to your client what you're planning and why. Show them which areas will get volume fans versus Camellia technique, and make sure they understand the final result will be somewhere between dramatic and natural. This prevents disappointment and helps manage expectations for the unique look you're creating.
Cost and Time Considerations for Your Lash Business
Both techniques affect your business differently in terms of time investment and pricing potential.
| Factor | Volume Lash Fans | Camellia Lashes |
| Application Time | 2.5-3 hours | 2-2.5 hours |
| Skill Level | Moderate | Advanced |
| Material Cost | $8-12 per set | $6-10 per set |
| Pricing Range | $180-350 | $150-280 |
| Fills Frequency | Every 3 weeks | Every 2-3 weeks |
| Fill Pricing | $80-120 | $70-100 |
Volume fans take longer but command higher prices due to the dramatic results. Camellia lashes require more artistic skill, making them valuable for attracting clients seeking natural looks.
Client Consultation: How to Choose the Right Technique
Picking the right lash extension technique for each client doesn't have to be complicated. Use this quick reference guide to match your client's needs with the best technique for their situation.
Quick Decision Guide
Choose Volume Fans When:
- Client says "I want dramatic lashes" or shows photos of bold lash looks.
- Natural lashes have obvious gaps or fewer than 15 lashes per 5mm section.
- Client is getting married, attending a special event, or wants photo-ready lashes.
- They specifically ask for "full" or "thick" lashes.
- Client has worn dramatic lashes before and loved them.
Choose Camellia Lashes When:
- Client says "I want natural-looking lashes" or "I don't want people to know they're fake".
- Natural lashes are fine, delicate, or bend easily when touched.
- Client works in conservative job (teacher, banker, nurse, corporate office).
- They're first-time lash extension clients who seem nervous.
- Client exercises daily, swims regularly, or has an active lifestyle.
Simple Assessment Questions
Ask these three questions to get clear answers:
"On a scale of 1-10, how dramatic do you want your lashes?"
- 1-4: Camellia lashes
- 5-7: Hybrid or discuss both options
- 8-10: Volume fans
"Do you want people to notice your lashes or just think you look more awake?"
- Notice lashes: Volume fans
- Look more awake: Camellia lashes
"How much time do you want to spend on lash maintenance?"
- Minimal time: Camellia lashes
- Don't mind regular upkeep: Volume fans
When in doubt, start with Camellia lashes for new clients since they're easier to adjust to, or suggest a hybrid approach that gives a taste of both techniques.
Volume Lash Fans or Camellia Lashes: Which Eyelash Extension Technique Works Best?
Both volume fans and Camellia lashes have their strengths, so having both lash extension techniques in your toolkit makes you way more valuable to clients. Volume fans are your go-to for drama and filling sparse lashes, while Camellia lashes win when clients want that "I woke up like this" natural look. Try mixing both methods in your next few appointments - you'll be surprised how much clients love having custom options that actually fit their lifestyle.
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